GRAYTON BEACH STATE PARK, FLA. — The kayak slips noiselessly into shallow water the color of tea. To the east lies a picturesque waterfront where the lake’s lily-spotted surface reflects iconic stands of longleaf pines and high-end vacation villages.
Heading west, paddlers enter a narrow, reed-framed channel that snakes through rolling dunes to emerge at a white sand beach overlooking the Gulf of Mexico.
In either direction, Western Lake offers surprising solitude given the summertime vacationers buzzing about the rest of south Walton County’s scenic 30A.
The 15 coastal dune lakes that follow this famed coastline may not be the star attraction — it’s tough competing with pristine aquamarine water and sugary sand — but visitors who skip them miss the chance to experience one of the world’s rarest landscapes up close.
The rare coastal dune lakes along Florida’s 30A offer kayakers the chance to paddle right up to the coastline, and sometimes beyond.
They’re found only here and in Oregon, Madagascar, New Zealand and Australia.
“A lot of people come here and say, ‘Whoo! Let’s get our cooler and get to the beach.’ It will suck you in,” said paddle guide and county native Stacie Boudreaux. “There’s so much more.”
Reachable by car from New Orleans in four-plus hours, from Baton Rouge in a little more than five, the 24 miles of byway known simply as 30A links ancient dune lakes, stunning state parks and some of the most exquisite beaches in the country.
Lay of the land
The speedometer fixed between the handlebars reads a breezy 11 miles per hour as the edge of Deer Lake slips by below the bridge.
The most pleasant way to get the lay of 30A is by bike — or eBike — via the paved Timpoochee Trail that runs parallel, skipping summertime traffic woes for easier access to each neighborhood.
A hand-painted sign welcomes visitors to quirky Grayton Beach along Florida’s 30A.
In Grayton Beach, a hand-lettered welcome sign promises “Nice dogs, strange people,” the unofficial slogan of this artsy enclave that boasts quirky galleries and some of the area’s best night life.
In alabaster Seaside, a designer development so idyllic it starred in The Truman Show, families tool around in golf carts and congregate in a main square that boasts bustling eateries, bars and boutiques.
While swaths of 30A are consumed by high-end communities with beaches exclusive to residents and renters, neighborhoods like quiet Blue Mountain, tony Seagrove, laid-back Inlet Beach, and Grayton Beach remain more accessible. (Find public beach accesses at visitsouthwalton.com.)
Longtime vacationer-turned-transplant Harrison Holditch co-founded Walton County’s first grain-to-glass microdistillery a few miles north of 30A.
Both the entrepreneur and Distillery 98’s signature spirits take inspiration from the natural beauty here. (One vodka is filtered through local oyster shells, another is named Dune Laker.)
“Just like everyone who visits, I’ve always loved this area,” Holditch said.
He recommends primitive camping on the shores of Eastern Lake and night paddling out to hear music from the neighboring Old Florida Fish House drift over the water.
Rare water
Dune lakes are freshwater reservoirs that nestle up to the coastline, occasionally opening up channels between the two.
When that happens, the lake’s tannin-stained water clears as it mingles with saltwater. Creatures like sting rays and bull sharks can swim in, and paddlers can cruise from the lake straight into the Gulf.
“It’s so special,” Boudreaux said. “And it looks like it’s about to breach again.”
In the case of dune lakes within two of Walton County’s three beachfront state parks, Boudreaux guides groups about 250 yards farther, where active artificial reefs attract sea turtles and aquarium favorites at snorkel-friendly depths.
In fact, the parks offer some of the best chances to experience beach, reef and lake.
At Topsail Hill Preserve, a paved bike lane and twice-a-day shuttle ferries passengers to Campbell Lake. Deer Lake State Park’s easy nature trails skirt its namesake reservoir, giving hikers lake views, beach access and the chance to spot pitcher plants and rare wildflowers.
And at Grayton Beach State Park, recently named the best in the U.S. by a prominent coastal scientist, the popular Western Lake offers on-site paddle-craft rentals.
On an overcast afternoon, Amanda Courville’s husband and three girls are using the park’s launch to hoist two stand-up paddleboards into the water. With a laugh, the Texas mom recalls their first attempt at the activity the day before in the choppy Gulf of Mexico. She hopes things will go more smoothly today.
“They said Western Lake is an easier place to learn,” Courville says. “This is a new experience for us.”
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WHAT TO DO
Get on the trail and the water with YOLO Board + Bike, where vacationers can rent paddleboards, bikes and eBikes, as well as arrange sunrise and other paddles with Stacie Boudreaux. (yoloboard.com)
At Dive 30A (dive30a.com) snorkel tours and dive charters are run by the president of the nonprofit that installed artificial reefs all along the coast. (Reef locations at swarareefs.org)
WHERE TO DINE
Dining here can add up. Hit Blue Mountain Bakery for fast, budget-friendly brekkies and lunches. Menus highlights include creative toasts, tasty pastry, made-to-order bowls and famous organic cinnamon rolls. (Bluemountainbakery.com)
Splash out at Old Florida Fish House, which serves expertly prepared tripletail, sear-at-your-table Wagyu and the locals’ favorite sushi. At sunset, the dueling pianists kick up and the sky pinkens over neighboring Eastern Lake. (Oldflfishhouse.com)
At the rowdier Red Bar, enjoy cold beer and impeccably cooked grouper as local bands cover the faves. A relatively new park-and-ride system serves both the bar and neighboring Grayton Beach. (theredbar.univer.se)
WHERE TO STAY
Brand-new, The Lodge at 30A offers a chic alternative to whole home or condo rentals with 85 well-appointed rooms, proximity to hot spots and services, and the option to upgrade to nearby private beach club access during your stay. (thelodge30a.com)
Campsites and cabins at Topsail and Grayton Beach state parks offer less costly accommodation alternatives, though reservations book up early. (floridastateparks.org)
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