Island time is not so far away: How to visit Ship Island

Every year around this time, when the storms start rolling in and the heat soars, the Mississippi Gulf Coast begins to look more and more enticing. 

One particular highlight of the Mississippi coast is Ship Island, a long, gleaming stretch of dazzling white sand off the coast of Gulfport.

Ship Island, located 12 miles off the coast, has been a popular day trip for generations. With little to no cellphone coverage, nor much in the way of general amenities, it’s the perfect place for those wishing to leave civilization behind for a few hours.

The island is a part of the National Park Service Gulf Islands National Seashore. 

How to get there

If you want to make the most of your day, be prepared for an early start. The ferry, which runs from March until October, departs from Gulfport. The morning ferry departs from Gulfport for the island at 9 a.m. Plan accordingly and know that the boat leaves on time. 

If the idea of an early start on the weekend is simply too much, there’s usually an afternoon ferry leaving at noon. Be aware, though, that the later option won’t give you much time on the island: The ferry trip to the island takes an hour each way, and during the weekend, return ferries leave at 2.30 p.m. and 5 p.m.. 

The trip out

The ferry departs from Gulfport’s harbor in Jones Park, where there’s plenty of free parking. Before hopping on the boat there’s also a classic tourist photo op, where a staff member will take a picture of you or your group before heading off on your adventure. You’ll have the option of buying the snap upon returning.

The ferry company, Ship Island Excursions, has been family owned since 1926. The ferry itself is relatively comfortable, with plenty of room for coolers, umbrellas or other items you’d like to take. The ferry has both indoor and outdoor seating. There’s also an onboard snack bar with basic snacks and, particularly important for early birds, coffee. 

Beware the sun

One thing to be keenly aware of is the lack of shade on the island. With no trees and only a couple of dining spots providing any sort of shelter, not only is sunscreen crucial but so is figuring out a place to avoid the (invariably blazing) sun. Beach umbrellas and chairs can be hired on the south side of the island, while you can also bring your own umbrella, tent or other shaded structure. 

Whichever way you go about it, don’t have an “It’ll-be-fine” approach unless you feel like losing a layer of skin. As Ship Island Excursions puts it: “A Ship Island sunburn is legendary.”

Pick your side

The island’s two main beaches have distinctly different characteristics. The south side, which is home to beach chairs, umbrellas and the island’s delightful little snack bar — complete with trinkets, reasonably priced food and drinks and, not least, air conditioning —  is where most people head, reached by a 10-minute walk across the boardwalk. The south side of Ship Island is much more active, with a keen Gulf Coast wind whipping up waves that are fun to dip into. The wind tends to kick up as the day goes on, so make sure your umbrella or tent is anchored well.

In contrast, the north side of the island is much calmer, with fewer people, little in the way of wind, and clearer water. Wade out into the water, look around, and you’ll see schools of fish, crabs, and all manner of aquatic life calmly going about their business. Last weekend a group of stingrays glided along the bottom, shadowing visitors on the boardwalk while they made their way back to the ferry. Magical.

Check out the fort

Though there have been several lighthouses on the island, the last one was a replica, whose brief existence was ended by Hurricane Katrina. The only really notable structure these days is Fort Massachusetts. Located just off the ferry dock, the sturdy brick fort was built after the War of 1812 and used during the Civil War, first by Confederate forces and then Union troops.

Helpful and knowledgeable guides lead tours, pointing out landmarks and relating stories from the fort’s occasionally hard-knock history. The top of the fort gives an unimpeded view of the island’s white sandy beaches and its grassy, scrubby interior. 

Prepare to relax

People head to Ship Island to birdwatch, fish, swim, read and explore. Whichever way you go about it, relax: You’re on island time now — even if only for a day.